Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide lists installed spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot. Open-cell is at the lower end and closed-cell at the higher end. Most jobs here are an attic, a crawl space or a shop, and we give a written price after a visit.

Some buyers and inspectors worry that foam on a roof deck hides roof leaks and rot, and that badly installed foam can leave odors. Careful installation, leak checks first and paperwork showing what was installed address most of those concerns.

We cannot predict any given winter, but cold nights are the reason floor and attic insulation matter here as much as summer heat does. That is why we plan every job for both seasons.

Alabama's code summary lists R-30 for ceilings in zone 3. The DOE suggests R-49 to R-60 for an uninsulated attic, or adding R-38 to R-49 over 3 to 4 inches.

If the crawl space stays vented, insulate the floor, ideally to R-19. If it can be closed off and kept dry, seal it and insulate the walls instead. We crawl it and tell you which fits.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the steel stops condensation and cuts heat. We size the thickness to how you use the building.

Several companies make professional spray foam systems. We list the product we plan to use on your quote so you can read its data sheet.

In damp or cold spots like rim joists, crawl spaces and under floors, usually yes. Under a dry roof deck, open-cell often does the job for less.

In heated spaces, yes. Cold crawl spaces and shops need the surface and foam in a working temperature range, so we add heat or pick a milder day.

Closed-cell slows vapor and keeps humid air off cold surfaces. It is not waterproofing and does not fix leaks.

Alabama's code summary lists R-30 for ceilings in zone 3. DOE suggests adding R-38 to R-49 over 3 to 4 inches of existing insulation.

Yes, if the old material is dry and clean. Wet, fouled or suspected vermiculite material comes out first.

Most attics are sealed and blown in a day.

Yes. It keeps heat in during winter as well as keeping heat out in summer.

Lights not rated for insulation contact need covers or clearance. We check each one.

Most with bare dirt benefit from one. It cuts ground moisture and is the first step either way.

R-19, per Alabama's zone 3 code summary and the DOE.

It can be, if the space can be kept dry and humidity is controlled. It costs more, so we price both.

Damp air makes them heavy and old supports give out. Closed-cell foam or better supports fix that.

Often, depending on access. Very tight spaces may need a different approach, which we explain after looking.

Usually, with dense-pack cellulose through small holes.

Packed at proper density, it should not settle much.

Alabama's code summary lists R-20, or R-13 plus R-5 continuous, for wood-frame walls in zone 3.

Usually not. Attic and crawl space work tends to pay back faster.

We plug and fill them. Paint matching or siding replacement is listed on the quote if it is part of the job.

About an inch of closed-cell often stops drip; 2 to 3 inches or more for a shop you heat or cool. The thickness is on the quote.

Not over loose or torn batts; those come down first so foam bonds to steel.

No. Leaks should be fixed first.

Not always. We cover what stays, but vehicles and sensitive items should be moved.

Some uses call for a protective or fire-rated coating over foam. We tell you if yours does and list it separately.

Usually. It loses much of its R-value and keeps wood damp.

Most attics take a day to clear.

It is better removed once entry points are closed.

Yes, if the rest is dry and clean.

Yes, removal includes bagging or vacuuming and disposal.